One bay or the whole room. That call gets made with a shovel, not from the doorway.
The question is almost never whether the concrete looks bad. Plenty of ugly garage slabs have twenty good years left. The question is whether the ground underneath is still holding the floor up, and you cannot answer that from the doorway with a flashlight. You answer it by opening a hole.
The two ends of the spectrum look nothing alike. In the older neighborhoods around Belmar and Applewood, the garage floor is often a thin slab poured onto native soil with no plastic and no base, and once that starts moving the story is short. Out in Solterra the slabs are newer and better built, so those calls are about a single failed section, a backward slope, or a floor somebody wants coated and cannot, because it has been damp since move-in day.
Is the concrete failing, or is the dirt failing? Everything follows from that. A slab with surface damage and sound support is a candidate for a partial fix or a coating. A slab that has dropped, rocks underfoot, or sounds hollow when you tap it with a hammer handle has a support problem, and new concrete over the same voided subgrade just resets the clock on the identical failure.
So we cut a small opening, usually near the door where trouble shows first, and look. Compacted base under there, or the same dirt the yard is made of? Is there plastic, or did somebody skip it back when the house was framed? Is the soil damp two feet in? Ten minutes with a saw and a shovel beats an hour of guessing, and it is the only honest way to price the work.
| What the opening shows | Partial or full | The reasoning |
|---|---|---|
| One section dropped, neighbors flat and solid | Partial | Saw a clean line at the joints, rebuild the base, dowel into what stays |
| Long crack, no height difference, no rocking | Neither yet | That is a shrinkage crack. Route it, fill it, get on with your life |
| Slab on native soil, no barrier, no base | Full | Nothing under there to repair. Every section is on the same clock |
| Flaking and pitting only in the ten feet by the door | Partial or a coating | Chloride and meltwater damage in the top layer, not a structural problem |
| Multiple bays out of plane, doors and trim showing movement | Full, and we look at the foundation first | Something bigger is moving. New concrete over it is money set on fire |
The floor comes out once. Whatever goes under it gets decided now, and a few of those calls are cheap today and impossible next year. Plastic under the slab is first, and it is not optional in our book. A sheet of poly between the ground and the concrete stops soil moisture from wicking up through the slab, and that is the difference between a floor you can coat and a floor that keeps rejecting coatings and sweating every warm day in spring.
Slope is second. A garage floor should fall toward the door so the slush your truck brings home in January runs out instead of collecting under the workbench. Joints are third, and in a plain rectangle they belong where the room wants them, not in the middle of where you park. If a lift, a heavy toolbox, or a conduit sleeve is anywhere in your plans, say so before we form.
We open a small hole, show you what is under there, and quote both ways. (303) 569-4046.
Your garage floor spends four or five months a year absorbing what the vehicles carry in. Snow packed in the wheel wells melts overnight into a puddle of road treatment, that liquid sits in the pores, and the next cold morning it freezes and pushes the top layer apart from the inside. Do that a few hundred times and the ten feet nearest the door goes sandy while the back of the room looks new. Air entrainment in the mix is the real defense, plus a floor that drains and a squeegee used more often than most people bother.
Good news on timing: a garage is the one slab we are happy to pour in the cold. It has walls and a roof, so we close the door, run heat, use heated mix water and blankets, and hold a proper cure while the rest of the trade waits on spring. Rather not lose the garage in July when the bikes are in constant use? Book it for January. Foot traffic in a couple of days, a vehicle at a week, a coating only after the slab has dried out for a month or more.
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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