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Footings & Piers in Lone Tree, Colorado
Lone Tree, Colorado

Lone Tree Footings and Piers

Nine degrees at seven in the morning, steam off the spoils pile, and a hole that still has to be right.

Nine degrees at seven in the morning, and there's steam coming off the spoils pile beside the auger. The top eighteen inches of that lot came out in frozen slabs the size of dinner plates. Everything under it drilled like ordinary dirt. That's frost on the Front Range in one picture: a lid, not a season long shutdown, and once you're through it a hole is a hole.

Supports have to answer to weather twice. Once while we build them, and then permanently, because the ground they live in freezes, thaws, soaks, and dries on a schedule nobody voted on. We size and place footings and piers around Lone Tree with both halves of that in mind, and the engineer who signs the design works here.

36 incommon minimum burial depth below finished grade in this county
#4vertical steel in a drilled pier, tied into what sits above
8 intypical pier diameter for deck and porch loads, sized up as loads climb
28 daysto full design strength once the hole is filled

Depth answers frost. Width answers load. They are separate questions.

People blur these two together and then wonder why a bid seems deep for a small structure. Depth is about frost, and frost around here reaches well past a foot in a cold winter. Bury the bottom of a support below where the ground freezes and seasonal ice can no longer get underneath and lift it. That's the whole reason for the number.

Width and diameter are a different conversation entirely, and they come from load divided by what the soil can carry. A covered porch column collecting roof snow puts down real weight. A shade structure post barely puts down any, but it may need to resist wind trying to pull it out of the ground, which is a footing problem running in reverse. Our engineer runs both directions before we set a hole size, because guessing costs less on paper than it does in year four.

What each season does to an open hole

Ground conditions through a Front Range year, and how the crew works around each one
SeasonWhat the ground is doingHow we adapt
Early springThawing on top, still frozen deeper, water everywherePump holes dry, check bottoms twice, resist the urge to pour into mud
Late springBest drilling of the year, moist and stableBook heavy pier work here whenever the schedule allows
SummerDry and hard up top, storms in the afternoonStart early, cover open holes, place before the cell arrives
FallDry, workable, no frost yetIdeal window for deck, porch, and outbuilding supports
Deep winterA frozen crust over drillable groundBreak the lid, thaw bearing surfaces, warm mix and blanket the tops

Around here the ground pushes up, not just down

Settlement gets all the attention because it's intuitive. Something sank. But the more common complaint we field on Douglas County soil is the opposite: a post, a stoop, a stair landing that keeps rising while the house sits perfectly still. Water gets into clay under a shallow support, freezes or swells, and the smallest, lightest thing on the property is the easiest for it to move.

That's why heave picks on decks, pergolas, gates, and detached structures. The house has weight and depth on its side. A twelve inch deep post hole has neither. We see it in the older backyards of Fairways and Montecito where original decks and arbors have been through decades of freeze cycles, and we see it on newer builds where a subcontractor set posts fast in the fall. Fix is the same either way: get below the frost, get onto soil that will hold, and give water somewhere to go.

Something on your property sagging, leaning, or riding higher than it used to?

We'll dig, look, and tell you whether it's a support problem or something cheaper. The visit and the estimate cost nothing.

What we get called out for around town

The custom homes up in Heritage Hills and Carriage Club bring us the heavier work: piers under an addition, supports for a covered outdoor room, a porte cochere column that needs more under it than what's there. Bigger structures, longer spans, and more roof load funneling into fewer points. Those jobs almost always start with the engineer, not the auger.

Newer construction around the RidgeGate side sends different calls. Usually a deck or a detached structure whose supports were set to the minimum on a tight builder schedule, and which has started telling on itself a few winters in. And across every neighborhood we drill piers for garage additions, sunrooms, retaining structures, and outbuildings that need to be tied into ground that doesn't rearrange itself every March.

What a footing and pier scope covers with us

  • Site review with our structural engineer, including load path from roof to soil
  • Locates called before any auger or shovel touches the yard
  • Holes drilled or dug to engineered depth, with bottoms cleaned and inspected
  • Reinforcing cages tied and centered so steel stays inside the concrete
  • Anchors, post bases, and brackets set to the framer's layout while concrete is workable
  • Backfill compacted in lifts and graded to shed water away from each support
  • Yard protection, spoils haul off, and a clean site at the end of each day
Lone Tree Footings & Piers

Footings & Piers in Lone Tree

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Below frost, and in this county that generally means three feet or deeper to the bearing surface. Local code and the soils conditions on your particular lot set the final number, and a drilled pier often goes considerably deeper to reach material that will actually carry the load. Anybody quoting you a two foot hole for a structure that has to last is quoting you a repair.

Usually it comes out. Once a shallow footing has ridden up, the soil beneath it has already rearranged, and pushing the structure back down does nothing about the reason it rose. We pull the old concrete, drill a proper depth hole, and reset. It reads as more work on the estimate and it is the only version that stops the cycle.

Yes, and we do it all season. The frozen layer gets broken through, hole bottoms get checked for ice before anything goes in, and fresh concrete gets warm mix water plus blankets over the tops while it cures. What stops us isn't cold, it's a sustained storm or a site too soft to hold a rig. Winter footing work also books faster than spring.

It leaves tracks and it leaves spoils. On established landscaping we lay plywood or track mats on the route, work off the least destructive approach, and haul cuttings out rather than spreading them. Sprinkler lines get located first, because hitting one is the fastest way to ruin a good day. We tell you honestly what's in the machine's path before we start.

Access, depth, and count. A backyard reachable by machine is a fraction of the labor of one where every hole gets dug by hand through a gate. Deeper design means more spoils, more concrete, more steel. And a structure with eight support points instead of four doubles the setup even though the building looks the same size from the street.

We do. Pre engineered metal buildings, equipment shelters, canopy columns, sign foundations, and shop structures all come through the same path: loads from the building supplier, soils information from the site, then a stamped design from our engineer. Uplift matters more on those than most people expect, and the anchor bolt layout has to be exact before concrete goes in.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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