(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Concrete Steps & Stairs in Lakewood, Colorado
Lakewood, Colorado

Lakewood Concrete Steps and Stoops

The landing is where you fumble for keys, hold a door, and set the bag down. Build that part right.

Think about what happens on your front steps in a normal week. Somebody comes up with a paper bag on one hip, digging for keys, and needs a flat place to stand while the storm door swings out at them. A kid takes them two at a time. Two trash cans get dragged down on Tuesday night and hauled back up Wednesday. A delivery driver jogs up, drops a box on the landing, and jogs back down without looking.

None of that is graceful and none of it is careful, and a good flight absorbs all of it without anybody noticing. We rebuild entries all over town, from the compact stoops on the mid-century blocks near Belmar to taller flights working down a grade in the Green Mountain area, and the design conversation always starts in the same place. Not the pattern, not the color. The landing.

The landing does more work than the steps do

A landing that is too shallow forces you to back down a step to let the storm door past, usually while holding something. That is the most common mistake we find on older entries, and it is the one that quietly makes people uneasy about their own front door. We build the top landing deep enough to stand square in front of the door, swing it fully open, and still have room behind your heels.

Width matters for the same reason. Two people should pass, or one person should set a box down and still get by it. And the landing gets fall like everything else, pitched away from the threshold so meltwater heads for the yard instead of pooling against the house and working into the joint. Small detail. It decides whether the top tread is dry or glazed on a January morning.

7 inthe riser height we aim for and then hold across the whole flight
11 intread depth, so a full adult foot lands with room to spare
1/4 inthe riser variation where feet start noticing and toes start catching
36 inminimum landing depth in front of a door that swings out at you

Rise, run, and the trip you make with both arms full

Your legs learn a staircase in about two trips. After that you are running on memory, in the dark, thinking about something else. That is why consistency beats every other spec on a flight. One riser a half inch taller than its neighbors is the reason somebody stumbles carrying groceries, and it is almost always the bottom one, because whoever poured it let the walk elevation dictate the last step instead of dividing the total height evenly.

We measure the full rise from finished landing to finished walk, divide it into equal parts, and build the forms to those numbers. Codes cap riser height and the variation allowed across a flight. We work well inside them. Rails get anchored into the concrete or into footings poured for the purpose, not surface-screwed into a tread and left to work loose. A rail that wobbles is worse than no rail, because people trust it.

Front entry due for a rebuild?

We will measure the rise, check the landing, and lay out what it takes. Free estimate. (303) 569-4046.

Getting traction on treads without eating the concrete

What we recommend for the steps you use every day in winter.
ApproachDoes it help you stay uprightWhat it does to the concrete
Shovel early, before it packsThe most effective thing on this listNothing, if you use a plastic blade instead of steel
Sand or crushed gritYes, immediately, on top of iceHarmless. Sweep it off in spring so it does not grind the surface
Magnesium chlorideWorks fast at low temperaturesThe hardest thing you can do to concrete. We ask you to keep it off entirely
Rock saltWorks down to moderate coldDrives freeze-thaw damage into the top layer. Never on a first-winter pour
Rubber stair treadsGood grip and easy on bare feetNone. Lift them in spring so moisture does not sit trapped underneath
Heated mat at the entryExcellent, and it removes the shoveling questionNone. Run the conduit for it while the steps are being built

Wheels, dogs, roof drip, and the calendar

Trash cans are harder on a set of steps than people are. Two loaded cans dragged down every week put their weight on the nosings, the thinnest and most exposed part of the flight and the first thing to go. We build a generous radius on that edge, tool it properly, and keep the mix air-entrained so the front lip has a fighting chance.

Texture is the other daily-use decision. A hard steel trowel finish looks sharp and turns treacherous the second it gets wet, and it will get wet, because the roof line above most entries drips right onto the top tread. We broom the treads across their width so the grooves run the direction you walk. It is not a rough finish. It is just not glass.

Steps are hand-formed work, so we like the shoulder seasons: April into June, then September through October, when the crew is not fighting heat during the finish. Cold-weather flights are doable with heated water and blankets over the whole set, and we will not place on frozen footings. Plan on your entry being out of service for the better part of a week.

Ask somebody what is wrong with their front steps and they say the concrete is crumbling. Watch them use the steps for two minutes and you see the real problem: they always pause at the same spot, because one riser is off.From the crew lead on these jobs
Lakewood Steps & Stairs

Steps & Stairs in Lakewood

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Deep enough to stand in front of the door with it fully open and still have space behind you, which in practice means about a yard minimum, more with a storm door that swings out. At least as wide as the door itself. If you set things down out there, go bigger. Nobody has ever complained about a roomy landing.

It is the reason your nosings wear out before anything else. Wheeled loads hammer the front edge of each tread, and the edge is the part with the least concrete behind it. We build a proper radius on it, tool it while the slab is plastic, and use a mix with good air content. If the cans are heavy and the flight is long, a narrow side ramp is worth talking about.

On existing steps, yes. Options run from a broadcast grit coating to shallow scoring across the tread to bonded rubber treads. On a new flight we solve it in the finish: a broom pass across the width, grooves running the way you walk, with the nosings tooled but not polished. A slick entry is a finishing decision somebody made, not a property of concrete.

Yes, and it is easier to plan before the pour than after. Rail posts either core into cured concrete with epoxy anchors or sit on anchors set while the concrete is wet. Both work. Setting them wet is cleaner and stronger. Tell us which side the household actually uses and whether anybody in the house wants something to hold on both sides.

Yes, more than people expect. That drip line puts water on the same six inches of concrete hundreds of times a year, and in winter it refreezes there nightly. It is why the top tread goes sandy while the bottom looks new. Gutter and downspout work is the real fix. We also pitch the landing away from the house so what does land there leaves quickly.

If both are tired, yes. The bottom step and the walk have to agree on elevation, and matching a new flight to an old sunken walk usually means the last riser ends up short, which is the exact thing that makes people trip. Doing them together lets us divide the total rise evenly and end on a landing that sits where it should.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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