(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Landscape Curbing & Edging in Lakewood, Colorado
Lakewood, Colorado

Lakewood Concrete Curbing Installers

You notice the mulch on the lawn long before you notice the edging that let it go.

Nobody stands at the curb studying their bed edging. What you see from the street is the mess it stopped holding: a brown fan of mulch across the grass after the last hard rain, river rock scattered into the gutter, a bed line that used to be a crisp arc and now wanders like a dropped garden hose. The edging is still down there. It quit working a while back and the yard has been telling on it ever since.

Poured curbing fails in ways you can read from twenty feet away, and each symptom points at something specific below grade. We install curbing throughout Lakewood and get called to replace failed runs about as often as we get called for new ones. The pattern holds whether the yard is a tight mid-century lot near Belmar or a newer layout in Solterra.

The bed reports the problem before the concrete does

Mulch on the lawn means the curb now sits lower than the bed material behind it. Either the run settled, or the beds got topped up three springs running and nobody accounted for the depth. Rock in the driveway says the same thing, faster and louder.

A wandering bed line means the edging never had side support. Poured curbing sits in a trench and leans on the soil either side, and if that trench was scratched into loose fill or cut too shallow, the run walks a little each freeze cycle until the arc turns into a wobble. A stripe of tall grass along one side means the mower cannot reach it, so the profile is wrong for how you cut. And a run broken into mismatched lengths had water under it that froze and lifted the pieces at different rates.

Where a run gives out, and what is underneath it

The five spots we look at first when a curbing job goes bad.
What you can seeWhat is going on belowHow we build that spot instead
A wave along a straight stretchTrench cut shallow into soft fill with nothing packed beneathCut full depth, compact the bottom, pour on ground that stays put
Cracks every few feet with lifted edgesWater sitting under the run and freezing, with no joints to work withTool joints at set spacing, give trapped water a way out of the bed
The section at the driveway crossing droppedBackfill along the drive edge that nobody compactedOverdig it, rebuild the support, thicken the curb through the crossing
A stained, mossy stretch on one sideSprinkler overspray or a downspout landing at the curb lineMove the head or the discharge, then pitch the bed so water leaves
Grass grown over the top edgeProfile too low or too round for a mower wheelRun a flatter top at a height the wheel can track

Radius work, sprinklers, and what is already buried in your beds

Tight curves are where the difference between crews shows up. An extruded run holds a surprisingly small radius in skilled hands, but the mix, the speed, and the hand work behind the machine all have to be right, or the curve comes out with a flat spot and a torn face. Around a small tree ring we sometimes hand-form instead. Slower, and we say so on the estimate.

Sprinkler lines are the other constant. On established yards, especially the older neighborhoods near Applewood and Bear Creek, the irrigation went in by three different hands over forty years and nobody left a map. We trench carefully, ask you to run the system so we can mark every head, and repair anything we nick. Heads inside the new bed line get raised or moved. Same for old plastic edging and the fabric under a decade of mulch. All of it comes out. Pouring against buried junk buys the same failure twice.

Beds losing their shape?

We walk the runs with you, price by the foot, and flag the spots needing extra work. (303) 569-4046.

What a curbing day leaves behind

  • Old edging pulled and hauled, fabric and staples included
  • Sod strip cut out and the spoil taken off site
  • Trench cut to depth with the bottom compacted, not scraped flat
  • Continuous pour to the profile you picked, formed or extruded
  • Joints tooled at set spacing so the run cracks where we chose
  • Color worked in while the concrete is plastic, then sealed
  • Beds raked back and the lawn edge cleaned up
  • Written notes on watering, mulch depth, mowing

Freeze cycles, first-season care, and the month to book it

A curb is a thin band of concrete with air on one side and loose bed material on the other, so it takes freeze-thaw harder than any slab on the property. Our answer happens below the surface: a trench with a compacted bottom, a run that is not sitting in a bathtub, and joints placed so the movement lands where we chose. Concrete cracks. Curbing is not exempt. The trick is picking the lines in advance.

Timing runs from the ground drying out in spring through October, and the smart move is to set curbing before the mulch, rock, and plants go in. Retrofitting into a finished bed means working around plant material and paying for the care that takes. On a full yard redo, we like to come after the irrigation and before the topdressing.

First season, go easy. Keep the mower wheel off the new run for a week or two, wait a few days before pushing rock up against it, and hold the bed material below the top of the curb so the thing can do its job. Keep deicer off any run along the driveway, that first winter especially.

Lakewood Landscape Curbing

Landscape Curbing in Lakewood

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Not really. Once a poured run has moved, the pieces no longer line up in any way you can shim back, and the cause is under it rather than in it. That stretch comes out, the trench gets rebuilt to depth with a compacted bottom, and we pour again. Good news: curbing is easy to replace in sections without touching the runs still holding true.

The bed grew and the curb did not. Every spring somebody adds an inch of mulch or a bag of rock, and after a few years the material sits level with the edging or above it. Then the first hard rain carries it over. Pull the depth back below the curb line, or run a taller profile next time. We would do both.

Constant moisture, almost always a sprinkler head aimed at it or a downspout dumping nearby. Algae and mineral deposit collect in the pores. It looks awful and it is cosmetic. Fix the water source first, then clean and reseal. Skip that first part and you will be cleaning it again by August.

Common, not normal. When the driveway went in, the trench along its edge got backfilled loose and never compacted, so anything poured on that strip later sits on soft ground. We overdig it, rebuild the support, and beef up the curb through the crossing. A small extra step that keeps one section from dropping while the rest holds.

Sometimes. If the run is sound and simply buried, we cut the sod back, clean the face, and reestablish the line. If it disappeared because it settled, clearing the grass just exposes a curb sitting too low to do anything. A flat top the mower wheel can ride keeps that overgrowth from starting.

Yes, and that is usually our recommendation. We cut clean breaks at the nearest joints, pull the failed length, rebuild the trench, and pour a matching section. Color will not match perfectly on day one, since fresh concrete is always brighter, and the gap closes over a season or two. Matching profile and joint spacing is what makes a patch disappear.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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