(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
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Landscape Curbing & Edging in Highlands Ranch, Colorado
Highlands Ranch, Colorado

Highlands Ranch Concrete Curbing

Landscape edging that holds a line for twenty years instead of buckling out of the bed in three.

You can diagnose most yards from the street. Plastic edging that has popped up out of the bed and now waves along like a black snake. A steel strip with a rusted lip standing an inch proud, waiting on somebody's bare foot. Rock spilling out onto the lawn where a border used to be, and a mow line that has crept a foot and a half into the planting since April.

Every one of those is the same failure in a different costume. The edging had no weight to it, it never went deep enough to matter, and Colorado ground pushed it aside. Poured curbing ends the argument: nothing to unstake, nothing to lift. It's a continuous little beam of concrete with a footing built in, and mowers, freeze cycles, and a ton of river rock all lose to it.

What you're seeing from the street

Common edging failures, what caused them, and the replacement detail
The symptomWhat went wrongWhat we do instead
Plastic edging waving up out of the groundStakes lifted by frost, and the strip has no mass to hold itself downA continuous poured curb with its footing below the bed line
Steel edging with a raised, rusted lipSame heaving, plus corrosion right at the soil lineConcrete doesn't rust and offers nothing sharp to catch a foot
Rock or mulch migrating into the turfThe border sits too low to contain what's behind itA profile with enough height above grade to actually hold material
Grass runners marching into the bedsNothing extends below the surface to stop themCurb depth that reaches past where those runners travel
A curb that broke into loose chunksPoured thin, nothing in the mix, no joints anywhereFiber through the batch and joints tooled on a planned spacing

Extruded or formed, and which profile to run

Most residential edging goes in with a curb machine. We feed a stiff, low-slump mix through it and it extrudes a continuous curb right on the bed line, which is why the curves come out smooth instead of faceted the way segmented products do. It's fast, it wastes almost nothing, and radius work is where it separates from the alternatives; a machine curb follows a sweeping arc around an island bed with no visible seam.

Formed curb is the other half of what we do, and it earns its keep where the machine can't help: taller retaining lips, curbs that step down a slope in even increments, straight lines along a walk. Slower, more labor, better result in those spots.

Profile is a real decision, not a catalog page. The slant or rolled top is what we push for anything bordering turf, because the mower wheel rides up on it and you stop hand-trimming the whole yard every week. A square profile looks sharper against modern architecture and holds deeper rock beds, at the cost of taking every shovel and mower hit on the corner. Eastridge yards are usually the first type, redoing beds that have fought sunken edging for decades. In BackCountry the curbing more often goes in with the plantings, and taller square profiles show up more there.

How a curbing install runs

  • Bed line laid out with a hose and walked from the porch and the street before anything is cut
  • Sod cut, trench dug to depth, and the spoil hauled off instead of spread in your beds
  • Trench bottom hand-tamped so the curb bears on firm ground the whole way
  • Sprinkler lines and heads located, with sleeves set wherever a line has to cross
  • Machine run for the main pull, then radii and terminations hand-tooled
  • Control joints tooled at a regular spacing while the concrete is still green
  • Integral color and a pattern roller if you picked them, then a sealer coat
Get a curb line you'd actually enjoy mowing around

Free on-site layout and a straight price by the linear foot. Call (303) 569-4046 and we'll come measure the beds.

Sprinklers, freeze cycles, and the right month to install

Curbing lives in the wettest microclimate on your property, and that's its main enemy. Irrigation runs three or four times a week straight onto a small section of concrete, so it goes into winter saturated, and a saturated section cycling through freezing and thawing is working against itself every night. Two things counter that: air entrainment in the mix, which we don't skip, and a sealer on colored curb renewed every few years. Adjusting heads so they water plants instead of concrete costs nothing and helps more than either.

The other damage source is the shovel and the plow blade, specifically where curbing runs along a driveway or a walk. Snow gets pushed toward the bed, the blade catches the curb, and you chip a corner. It's another argument for a rolled top, which deflects a blade instead of stopping it.

Installation season runs from the ground thawing in spring through to about the end of October. Curbing is quick, so it drops into a schedule without much lead time even during the busy months. Fall is quietly the best window: beds are getting cut back anyway, digging is easier in cool weather, and the curb cures for months before it faces a full irrigation season. Winter is the one time we'll tell you to wait. The machine needs unfrozen ground, and a thin section is far harder to protect through a cold night than a slab.

6"of width at the base on our standard profile
4"standing above grade, enough to hold rock back
18-24"between the joints we tool into a curb run
Every 2-3 yrsrecoat colored curbing to keep the color reading true
Highlands Ranch Landscape Curbing

Landscape Curbing in Highlands Ranch

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Not in extruded curb, and that's by design. The section is too small to place steel where it would do any good, and bar sitting near the surface would rust and split the concrete open. We use fiber through the mix for crack control instead, and we tool joints at a regular spacing so shrinkage relieves itself on lines we picked. Formed curb that's tall or retaining does get steel.

At the joints, yes, and that's the plan. Concrete shrinks as it cures and a long continuous run has to relieve that stress somewhere, so we tool joints every foot and a half to two feet and let the cracking happen out of sight beneath them. What you should never see is a random break across the middle of a section. That means it was poured thin or laid on soft ground.

That's exactly what a rolled or slant profile is for. Ride the wheel up on the curb and the blade cuts the grass edge clean, which is the whole reason people stop hand-trimming after they install it. Square profiles don't allow it and you'll want a trimmer. Tell us how you mow and we'll steer you to the right shape.

By the linear foot, with adjustments for the things that take extra time: tight radii, terminations at walks and drives, integral color, a stamped pattern, and any removal of old edging. Length is the main lever, so measure your beds with a tape before you call. We put the whole thing in writing before anyone starts.

Most residential jobs are one day, occasionally two if there's a lot of removal or hundreds of feet of run. There will be a strip of disturbed dirt where the trench was; we snug it back and clean the hard surfaces before we leave. Grass recovers in a few weeks with normal watering.

Yes, and those run differently from a single yard. We phase the work so parking and walking routes stay open, coordinate notice to residents through whoever manages the property, and match the profile and color of the existing curb so new sections don't announce themselves. Bulk runs get their own schedule and pricing, and we'll walk the whole property before quoting.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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