Five minutes walking the perimeter will tell you most of what you need to know about a shell.
Do this on a Saturday morning before anybody gets in. Start at one corner and walk the whole perimeter slowly, looking down. Step on each coping stone. Watch where the deck meets the tile. Then look out into the lawn on the downhill side. Almost every serious problem a concrete pool has announces itself along that walk, months or years before anybody calls a builder.
We get called for both halves of this trade here: new shells for homeowners building the back yard they always wanted, and second opinions on older pools in Southglenn and Walnut Hills where somebody was handed a number that felt like a guess. Either way the conversation starts with structure, because the shell is the part you can't redo later. Tile, plaster, and coping are finishes. The concrete is the pool.
Coping first. Press down on each stone with your foot. One that rocks or clicks has lost its bed, which usually means water has been running behind it into the bond beam for a while. Look at the sealant line between coping and deck while you're there. Cracked open or missing, and you've found the entry point.
Next, the tile band at the waterline. A hairline in the grout is nothing. A crack running through tile, grout, and down into the plaster in one line is a different animal.
Then the plaster. Fine crazing over the surface is a finish condition and it's common. A crack you can catch a fingernail in, running from a corner or a step, is structural until somebody proves otherwise. Rust bleeding through in a vertical streak means steel is corroding.
Finally, the lawn. A green stripe staying wet downhill while the rest of the yard is dry is water going somewhere it shouldn't.
| What you see | What's usually behind it | How urgent |
|---|---|---|
| A coping stone that rocks underfoot | Failed sealant let water into the bond beam and washed out the bed | Fix the joint this season, before freezing weather |
| Fine crazing across the plaster | Ordinary aging of the finish coat | Cosmetic. Watch it, plan a resurface eventually. |
| One crack running corner to corner | The shell moved, or was under-reinforced where it turns | Get it looked at. Structural question, not a patching question. |
| Rust streaking up through the plaster | Steel corroding because cover over the bar is thin or cracked | Serious. It only gets larger from here. |
| Deck pulled away, open gap at the coping | The deck settled into backfill while the shell stayed put | Not structural. Still a direct path for water into the fill. |
| Waterline dropping with nobody swimming | A leak in the shell, a penetration, or the plumbing | Track it down now. Water feeding the soil causes the next problem. |
Engineering comes first, not last. Soil varies lot to lot here, and a hole holding tens of thousands of gallons is a structure, so it gets designed as one. Our in-house structural engineer sets wall thickness, bar size and spacing, and how floor and walls tie together at the cove. That drawing is what the steel crew builds to and what we inspect against before anybody sprays concrete.
For placement, shotcrete goes on nearly every residential pool. Concrete shot at velocity into a tied cage consolidates around the bar, follows curves, and lets us build free-form shapes without forms on both faces. Cast-in-place is a real method and it belongs on rectangular shells formed both sides, or where a wall is part of a larger structure. More time, more formwork, straight sides.
Then the boring part that decides everything: the cure. A fresh shell stays wet for days, hose crew back morning and evening, because concrete that dries too fast gains less strength and cracks underwater. Plaster waits until we're satisfied.
Get a second look before you agree to that. We'll tell you if the concrete is genuinely finished or just tired.
Break ground in the fall if you want to swim the following summer. That surprises people who call in May expecting water by July, but a pool is a sequence of trades with waiting built into every step.
Cold doesn't stop shell work outright. We shoot into the fall, watching overnight lows, protecting fresh concrete with blankets and adjusting the mix when we need to. What we won't do is place onto frozen ground or let a green shell take a hard freeze unprotected. Excavation is what really slows once frost is in the soil.
Then the first year. Watch water chemistry on new plaster, keep the deck joints sealed, and pay attention to where roof and irrigation water goes around the pool. The soil around a shell is the one thing you keep influencing after we've gone.
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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