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Concrete Pools in Centennial, Colorado
Centennial, Arapahoe County

Centennial Concrete Pools

Five minutes walking the perimeter will tell you most of what you need to know about a shell.

Do this on a Saturday morning before anybody gets in. Start at one corner and walk the whole perimeter slowly, looking down. Step on each coping stone. Watch where the deck meets the tile. Then look out into the lawn on the downhill side. Almost every serious problem a concrete pool has announces itself along that walk, months or years before anybody calls a builder.

We get called for both halves of this trade here: new shells for homeowners building the back yard they always wanted, and second opinions on older pools in Southglenn and Walnut Hills where somebody was handed a number that felt like a guess. Either way the conversation starts with structure, because the shell is the part you can't redo later. Tile, plaster, and coping are finishes. The concrete is the pool.

The walk, in order

Coping first. Press down on each stone with your foot. One that rocks or clicks has lost its bed, which usually means water has been running behind it into the bond beam for a while. Look at the sealant line between coping and deck while you're there. Cracked open or missing, and you've found the entry point.

Next, the tile band at the waterline. A hairline in the grout is nothing. A crack running through tile, grout, and down into the plaster in one line is a different animal.

Then the plaster. Fine crazing over the surface is a finish condition and it's common. A crack you can catch a fingernail in, running from a corner or a step, is structural until somebody proves otherwise. Rust bleeding through in a vertical streak means steel is corroding.

Finally, the lawn. A green stripe staying wet downhill while the rest of the yard is dry is water going somewhere it shouldn't.

What the symptom is telling you

Six things people notice from the deck, and how worried to be about each
What you seeWhat's usually behind itHow urgent
A coping stone that rocks underfootFailed sealant let water into the bond beam and washed out the bedFix the joint this season, before freezing weather
Fine crazing across the plasterOrdinary aging of the finish coatCosmetic. Watch it, plan a resurface eventually.
One crack running corner to cornerThe shell moved, or was under-reinforced where it turnsGet it looked at. Structural question, not a patching question.
Rust streaking up through the plasterSteel corroding because cover over the bar is thin or crackedSerious. It only gets larger from here.
Deck pulled away, open gap at the copingThe deck settled into backfill while the shell stayed putNot structural. Still a direct path for water into the fill.
Waterline dropping with nobody swimmingA leak in the shell, a penetration, or the plumbingTrack it down now. Water feeding the soil causes the next problem.

How we build a shell that doesn't do any of that

Engineering comes first, not last. Soil varies lot to lot here, and a hole holding tens of thousands of gallons is a structure, so it gets designed as one. Our in-house structural engineer sets wall thickness, bar size and spacing, and how floor and walls tie together at the cove. That drawing is what the steel crew builds to and what we inspect against before anybody sprays concrete.

For placement, shotcrete goes on nearly every residential pool. Concrete shot at velocity into a tied cage consolidates around the bar, follows curves, and lets us build free-form shapes without forms on both faces. Cast-in-place is a real method and it belongs on rectangular shells formed both sides, or where a wall is part of a larger structure. More time, more formwork, straight sides.

Then the boring part that decides everything: the cure. A fresh shell stays wet for days, hose crew back morning and evening, because concrete that dries too fast gains less strength and cracks underwater. Plaster waits until we're satisfied.

Been told your shell has to come out?

Get a second look before you agree to that. We'll tell you if the concrete is genuinely finished or just tired.

What our concrete scope covers on a pool

  • Engineered shell drawings, sealed, with the steel schedule spelled out
  • Excavation shaped to the design, over-dig held to what the crew actually needs
  • Steel tied and inspected, chairs holding real cover over every bar
  • Plumbing held under pressure through the shoot so a break shows itself
  • Shotcrete placed by a nozzle crew that does this daily, cut and screeded to line
  • Wet curing on a schedule, not left to the weather

Building on the Front Range calendar

Break ground in the fall if you want to swim the following summer. That surprises people who call in May expecting water by July, but a pool is a sequence of trades with waiting built into every step.

Cold doesn't stop shell work outright. We shoot into the fall, watching overnight lows, protecting fresh concrete with blankets and adjusting the mix when we need to. What we won't do is place onto frozen ground or let a green shell take a hard freeze unprotected. Excavation is what really slows once frost is in the soil.

Then the first year. Watch water chemistry on new plaster, keep the deck joints sealed, and pay attention to where roof and irrigation water goes around the pool. The soil around a shell is the one thing you keep influencing after we've gone.

Centennial Pools

Pools in Centennial

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Not usually, and the difference matters. Plaster is a thin finish coat over the structure, and fine crazing across it is ordinary aging. What concerns us is a single crack with a defined line, often starting at a corner or a step, sometimes with staining or a bit of offset along it. Those go through the finish because something moved behind it. A dye test or a look with the water down settles the question.

Bucket test first, which separates evaporation from actual loss and costs you nothing but a morning. After that, pressure testing the plumbing lines isolates whether water is leaving through pipes or through the shell. Dye at suspected cracks and fittings, with the pump off, shows exactly where water is pulling through. Draining a pool to hunt for a leak is close to the last resort, and it carries its own risks.

Most can be repaired, and we say that as people who make money either way. Structural cracks can be routed and injected, bond beams rebuilt, sections of wall replaced, and a tired interior resurfaced. What tips a pool toward replacement is widespread cracking that shows the shell is still moving, corrosion through a lot of the steel, or a shell built so far off spec that fixing it costs more than starting over.

Ours do, and we'd want one even where nobody required it. You're placing a large water-filled structure into soil that changes with moisture, and the difference between a shell that holds up and one that cracks is bar size, spacing, thickness, and how the corners are detailed. That's engineering, not opinion. Having the engineer in-house means the design and the field crew are talking to each other.

The concrete portion is a matter of weeks: excavation, steel, plumbing, shoot, then curing time before anything else happens. The full project runs months, because tile, coping, deck, equipment, plaster, and startup all queue up behind each other, and each of those is a different trade with its own schedule. Weather adds slack. Starting in fall for a summer opening is the realistic plan.

Because the water inside is part of what holds it down. Wet ground pushes up on an empty shell, and pools have been lifted out of position that way. If a pool genuinely has to be emptied for repair work, it gets done deliberately: check the hydrostatic relief valve, watch the groundwater, pick a dry stretch of the year, and don't leave it sitting empty. Never drain one just to look at it.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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