(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Concrete Countertops in Centennial, Colorado
Centennial, Colorado

Centennial Concrete Countertops

Nobody lives on concrete. You live on whatever we sealed it with, so that's the decision we spend the most time on.

Nobody actually lives on concrete. You live on whatever we sealed it with. That's the part of a concrete countertop that decides your Tuesday: whether a lemon wedge left by the sink leaves a mark, whether the spot in front of the range clouds over, whether wiping the thing down is a two-second job or a small negotiation with a bottle of something special.

The concrete is the straightforward part. We control the mix, the steel, the thickness, and the color, and once it has cured it behaves like a slab of stone as far as your kitchen is concerned. The sealer is where the real choices live. It's the difference between a top somebody babies and a top somebody cooks on five nights a week without thinking about it.

The surface you actually touch

Concrete is porous. Left bare it would drink olive oil, red wine, and the water that pools around a faucet, and it would show you every one of them. So every top we build gets sealed, and what we reach for has more to do with how you cook than with how the kitchen photographs.

Two families cover most of the work. Penetrating sealers soak in and leave the surface feeling like honed stone, matte and natural, the texture still under your hand. Film formers cure into a thin, tough layer riding on top and resist stains harder. Both are food safe once cured. They fail in opposite directions, though, and that's the conversation worth having before we cast anything.

Sealer families, and what living with each one is like

Four ways to protect the same slab, matched to four different kitchens
SealerHow the surface behavesWhat defeats itFixing it later
Penetrating impregnatorMatte and natural, feels like concrete, and heat is less of a worryAcids. Lemon, vinegar, or tomato left sitting will dull itEasy. Clean the spot, wipe fresh sealer on, blend it out
Wax over a penetrating sealerSoft sheen, warm under a hand, forgiving about small marksHeat softens wax, and it wears off fastest in front of the sinkEasy and frequent. Rewax a few times a year, which some enjoy and others resent
Water-based filmLight sheen, good stain resistance, low odor going onCutting on the surface, and a hot pan without a trivetModerate. Scuff and recoat the whole top so the sheen stays even
High-solids urethaneToughest against stains and acidsHeat, and any scratch deep enough to cut the filmHarder. Spot repairs show, so a worn top gets stripped and recoated

Heat, knives, and the short list of things we'd tell you not to do

Set a hot pan down on any sealed concrete and you're testing the sealer, not the concrete. The slab underneath could not care less. The film or the impregnator cares a great deal, and enough get scorched every year that we say it out loud at the estimate: use a trivet, including for the cast iron you just pulled out of the oven.

Cutting is the other one. Concrete is harder than your knives, so the board protects the blade as much as the counter. Past those two, a concrete top is easy company, whether it's a kitchen remodel in Southglenn or a grill island out back in Piney Creek. Warm water, mild soap, a cloth. Wipe acidic spills instead of admiring them. Keep the bleach sprays and abrasive powders under the bathroom sink. Nobody needs a proprietary cleaner, whatever the person selling it says.

Come look at samples, then tell us how you cook

The way a kitchen gets used picks the sealer better than any brochure can. Free estimates. Call (303) 569-4046.

From template to the morning you get your kitchen back

  • Template after the cabinets are set and level, never off a floor plan
  • Sink, faucet, and cooktop cutouts confirmed against the actual boxes
  • Molds built upside down so the finished face cures against a hard surface
  • Steel and structural fiber placed for the overhangs and around every cutout
  • Cast, cured damp, demolded, then ground and filled until the face reads the way you approved
  • Sealed, then given real cure time before anything gets set down on it
  • Set on shimmed cabinets, with seams filled and colored on site
1.5 to 2 inchesthe usual thickness of a top we cast
10 to 12 incheshow far a top reaches past the cabinet before it wants support
28 dayscure time before a finished top leaves the shop
One daywhat the set itself takes in most kitchens
Every top we've refinished early came back for one of two reasons. A hot pan set down in a hurry, or a lemon wedge that sat by the sink overnight. Never because the concrete gave up.What our crew lead tells homeowners
Centennial Countertops

Countertops in Centennial

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Oil, if it sits. It migrates into anything porous, so a puddle under a bottle overnight can leave a shadow even through good sealer. Wine and coffee are fine when you wipe them within a reasonable time. The real troublemakers are acids: lemon, vinegar, tomato. Those etch rather than stain, and on a penetrating product the repair is a wipe of fresh material.

Probably not. Slow heat plus moisture trapped under an appliance usually clouds the sealer instead of hurting the concrete, and that cloudiness often clears on its own over a few days as the moisture works its way out. If it doesn't, the fix follows the sealer: an impregnator gets cleaned and rewiped, a film gets scuffed and recoated. Slide a mat under it next time.

Weight and doorways decide that more than anything. We cast in the shop, so a top has to travel, turn a corner, and come through your door carried by people, and past a certain size that stops being safe for the top or the crew. When a seam is needed we place it deliberately: over a cabinet gable, at an inside corner, never floating across an unsupported span. Filled and colored on site, it reads as a line rather than a gap.

After they're set, shimmed, and level, and not a day earlier. A concrete top gets cast to a template, and a template is only as honest as what's under it. Building from a plan drawing invites a quarter inch of trouble that reveals itself on set day, which is far too late. Template, fabricate, set. Plan on a couple of weeks without counters in that stretch.

It does, which is exactly why curing happens in a controlled shop and not in your kitchen. Concrete that dries too quickly at the surface develops crazing, a fine web of hairlines that isn't structural but is visible under a sealer. Slow, damp curing prevents it. Once a top is cured, sealed, and living in a heated house, the dry air outside stops being a factor.

Two things. It heats a dark top to a temperature that will surprise you on a July afternoon, so lighter colors are a kindness out there. And ultraviolet works on the sealer season after season, so an outdoor top needs a product rated for it and a refresh on a schedule instead of when it starts looking tired. Cover it for winter too, since freeze-thaw on a saturated edge is what chips them.

Small pieces are some of our favorite work. A powder room vanity, a bar, a hearth: those come out beautifully and they let you find out whether you like living with the material before committing a whole kitchen. What doesn't pencil out is one small piece as a trip by itself, so we'll suggest pairing it with other work.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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