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Basketball & Sport Courts in Centennial, Colorado
Centennial, Colorado

Centennial Basketball Courts

The court gets decided in the four hours between the last truck and the last pass of the broom.

Concrete gives you one window. Once the last truck pulls away, the clock runs on bleed water, set time, and the exact moment each finishing step has to happen, and none of it waits for anybody. On a driveway a small mistake in that window means a slightly rough patch. On a basketball court it means a dead spot you'll feel on every dribble for twenty years.

That's why we treat court pours differently from the rest of our flatwork. More hands on site, a plan written before the first truck backs in, and a crew that's watching the surface rather than the clock. Courts are going into back yards all over Piney Creek and Homestead, and the difference between one that plays true and one that doesn't happens on a single morning.

Everything that has to be right before concrete arrives

Base sets the ceiling on flatness. You cannot float out a low spot in the subgrade, so we grade the aggregate to the same tolerance we want in the finished surface and compact it in lifts. A laser goes on it repeatedly, not once. Any place a machine tracked through after grading gets reworked.

Then the pitch. A court has to shed water or it holds puddles and grows algae in the shade, but too much slope and the ball rolls away from you all afternoon. We take it in one direction only, gently, so the surface is a single tilted plane rather than a crown or a valley. One plane. That's the whole idea, and it's what makes a bounce predictable anywhere on the court.

Steel goes in on chairs, at the depth the design calls for. Hoop footing gets dug and formed before pour day, sized for the pole and the twisting force a backboard puts on it, and isolated from the slab so the two can move separately. Sleeve or anchor bolts get set to the manufacturer's template, checked twice, because that template is not something you fix later with a hammer.

4 inslab thickness for a residential court, over compacted base
4,000 PSIair-entrained mix, six percent air for our winters
1/8 inthe flatness we chase, checked with a ten-foot straightedge
28 daysto full design strength, though you'll be playing well before that

The finishing window, step by step

Each of these has a moment, and being late costs you something specific
StepWhen it happensWhat it costs you if it's late
Strike off to gradeAs each section is placedHigh and low areas you can no longer fix with a float
Bull floatImmediately behind the screedAggregate left proud at the surface and a rough plane to work from
Wait out the bleed waterHowever long it takes, and no shortcutsWorking water back into the surface, which means dusting and scaling later
Straightedge and check the planeRight as the bleed water leavesThe last chance to correct flatness. After this you live with it.
Float and finishOnce the surface holds a footprintA closed, slick surface that plays fast and gets dangerous when wet
Broom or light textureJust before the surface hardens offNo traction, or a texture so deep it eats the ball's true bounce
Saw the control jointsSame day, as soon as it will support the sawRandom cracks going wherever they please, straight across the key

The hours while the truck is here

We place a court in strips and keep the concrete moving, because a cold joint in the middle of a playing surface is a permanent line. Screed follows the pour, bull float follows the screed, and one person does nothing but watch the plane with a straightedge and call out where it needs another pass.

Then comes the part that looks like standing around. Bleed water rises and it has to leave on its own. Touch the surface early and you work that water back into the paste at the top, which weakens exactly the layer a ball bounces off. So we wait, and we watch, and on a windy afternoon at this elevation that wait can be short and the crew has to be ready to move fast.

Finishing is a judgment call. Too smooth and the court is slick when it's damp. Too rough and it chews the ball and skins knees. We aim for a light, even texture with enough grip for quick footwork and not so much that the bounce goes dull. Saw cuts follow the same day, laid out on a square grid that we align with the lines so a seam never lands where somebody is dribbling hard.

Thinking about a court this season?

Send us the dimensions of your usable flat area. We'll tell you what fits and where the hoop should stand.

What comes with a court we build

  • Grade shot across the whole pad before base material goes anywhere
  • Aggregate base compacted in lifts and lasered to court tolerance
  • Hoop footing dug, formed, and isolated from the slab, anchors set to the template
  • Reinforcement on chairs, sized to the slab, not mesh laid on dirt
  • A single-plane slope for drainage, oriented so runoff leaves the play area
  • Joints sawed the same day on a layout that dodges the key and the arc
  • Cure protected, plus a written schedule of when you can play and when to coat
Centennial Basketball Courts

Basketball Courts in Centennial

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

An eighth of an inch is the number, measured with a ten-foot straightedge laid in every direction, and we check it during the finishing window rather than eyeballing it afterward. That's tighter than a driveway needs and it's the whole point of hiring somebody for a court. The check happens while the concrete can still be corrected, which is a window of maybe twenty minutes.

We lay the joint grid out on paper before the pour, aligned to the court's own geometry, so cuts fall along logical lines and stay out of the high-traffic area under the basket. Square panels, spaced to the slab thickness, is the rule that keeps random cracking away. A cut is a narrow, shallow line and a properly finished one barely registers under a ball. A random crack absolutely does.

It happens before pour day. The footing is its own excavation and pour, sized for the pole and the load a backboard puts on it when somebody hangs on the rim, and set below the depth frost reaches. Anchor bolts or the sleeve go in on the manufacturer's template, squared to the court lines and checked twice. We keep the footing isolated from the slab so the two aren't fighting each other.

We watch the radar all morning and we'll delay a pour rather than risk it. Once concrete is down and rain hits during the finishing window, water dilutes the surface paste and you get dusting and scaling months later. Crews carry plastic and we cover fast, and a light shower on concrete that's already set up is survivable. A downpour at the wrong moment is a conversation about grinding or an overlay.

No. Plain broom-finished concrete plays fine and thousands of people are happy with it. An acrylic sport coating adds consistent color, sharper lines, slightly softer footing, and a uniform bounce, and it needs recoating every handful of years. If you skip the coating you can still get painted lines, which is the cheap version. We tell people to play on bare concrete a season first and decide from there.

Late spring through September, with the shoulders being ideal. Midsummer heat shortens the finishing window and makes flatness harder to hold, so we start early on hot days. Early fall gives warm days and cool nights, which is close to perfect for a large flatwork pour. We'd avoid the deep cold entirely on a court, because you cannot rush the finishing sequence and you don't want blankets over a surface where flatness is the product.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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