(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
RV & Boat Pads in Castle Pines, Colorado
Castle Pines, CO

Castle Pines RV Pad Contractors

Tandem axles put a lot of weight into a very small footprint, and the slab has to answer for it.

Second week of November. Four inches of heavy snow came in overnight, it's melting by noon, and the trailer is sitting where it always sits, on ground that was firm in September and is now soup. Back the tow rig in and you'll leave ruts deep enough to lose a boot in. That's the week people finally call about a pad.

Fair enough. Gravel and native dirt work fine eight months a year, then quit exactly when you need them. Spring is worse than fall, since snowmelt keeps the top foot of soil saturated for weeks while a loaded rig presses on four small patches of rubber. Concrete solves it, but only if it was built for the load. Plenty of pads are just fat sidewalks with an RV on top.

What a loaded rig does to a slab

A car spreads maybe a ton over four tires and drives off every morning. A fifth wheel parks in October and doesn't move until May, several tons pinned over two axle positions with a landing gear foot the size of a dinner plate under the nose. That's not driveway loading. That's a point load holding still through every freeze-thaw of the season.

Static weight is what people underestimate. Soil under a permanently loaded footprint compresses in ways it never does under traffic that comes and goes, and any soft pocket down there gets found. Add stabilizer jacks punching down at four more spots and you've got six concentrated loads on a slab somebody poured four inches thick because that's what the driveway got.

What we work out before a single form goes down

  • Measured length of the rig with the tongue, the bumper rack, and anything hanging past both
  • Extra apron so the tow vehicle isn't straddling dirt at hitch-up
  • Turning room off the drive, checked against the trailer's real swing
  • Slope that carries meltwater off instead of pooling under the axles
  • Conduit sleeve run under the slab before the pour, not cut in later
  • Thickened edges where the wheels sit closest to the perimeter
  • Clearance under low branches, which matters more on wooded lots than people expect

Length, swing, and the apron nobody plans for

Measure the rig, then add ten feet. Everyone builds a pad that fits the trailer exactly and then finds there's nowhere to stand while cranking the jack, nowhere for the chocks, and nowhere for the truck during hitch-up. Ten extra feet turns a wrestling match into a five-minute job.

The apron is the other piece. Where the pad meets the drive, that transition takes the full weight of the rig twice a season, at an angle, with tires climbing. We form the joint deliberately: doweled, thickened, and cut so the two slabs move independently instead of one shearing off the other. Side yards in Lagae Ranch and BellaMesa often have room to make this simple. Established streets in Castle Pines North usually need a longer talk about grade first.

Pad thickness by what parks on it

How the spec changes with the weight and how long it sits
What you're parkingWhat we pourReasoning
Small utility trailer, seasonal4 inches, mesh at mid-depth, compacted baseLight and it moves often. Standard flatwork handles it.
Single-axle travel trailer5 inches with bar on chairsOne axle means every pound rides two contact patches.
Tandem-axle travel trailer6 inches, steel on a tightened gridTwo axles close together load a narrow band of slab hard.
Fifth wheel or Class A motorhome6 inches minimum, thickened at the landing gearThe nose weight alone will punch a thin slab over one winter.
Boat plus the truck that pulls it5 to 6 inches with an extended apronTwo vehicles, one surface, and the tongue jack sits where nobody planned for it.
The approach off the drivewayMatch the pad depth, doweled into the existing slabLoad hits here at an angle. First thing to crack if you cheap out.
Not sure you've got room for it?

Give us the length of the rig and the side yard you're working with. We'll sketch the layout before you commit to anything.

6"depth we pour where a loaded rig lives
18"rebar grid we tighten to under the wheel paths
6%entrained air in the exterior mix
28 daysbefore the full rig goes back on it

Timing a pad pour on the Front Range

Best case, you pour in a shoulder season and lose nothing. Late April into early June, or September through mid-October. The rig is out traveling or already put away, the ground is workable, and there's enough mild weather left to reach full strength before a hard freeze.

Fall is our busiest stretch for pads, for an obvious reason: people just spent a season backing into their own mud. Call in September and you're usually parked on new concrete before real winter arrives. Call in January and we'll be straight with you. Cold placement works with heated water, a non-chloride accelerator, and blankets held on for days, but a pad still needs its full 28 days before taking that weight, and frozen subgrade is where we stop.

One habit worth picking up: rinse the frame before the rig comes home in late winter. Road chemicals ride in underneath and drip on the slab all night, and magnesium chloride will pit a young surface faster than weather ever does.

Every failed pad we tear out has the same crack, running right across where the front axle sat. Four inches, wire mesh lying flat in the dirt, no thickened edge. The concrete didn't fail. Nobody ever asked it to carry that.What the crew sees on site
Castle Pines RV & Boat Pads

RV & Boat Pads in Castle Pines

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Six inches, with reinforcing bar tied on chairs and the landing gear area thickened further. Fifth wheels carry serious pin weight on a very small footprint, and that footprint sits in one place for months. We also build the base heavier under a pad like this, because the slab is only ever as good as what's holding it up.

Yes, if the drainage gets fixed at the same time. Ruts mean saturated soil under a heavy load, and concrete spreads the load beautifully but doesn't dry the ground out. We regrade so meltwater runs off instead of collecting, build a compacted base that drains, and then pour. Do only the pour and you've built a nice slab on the same wet ground.

Foot traffic at a day or two. A pickup at seven days if we've had normal temperatures. The loaded rig waits the full 28 days, and we mean it, because the surface strength climbs steadily through that window and a set of stabilizer jacks on green concrete leaves dimples you can't undo. Put a pad or a board under each jack foot regardless of age.

Square footage first, then depth and steel, then whatever the site fights us on. Access is a real factor: if the truck can chute directly into the forms it's a short day, and if everything has to move by buggy through a side yard it isn't. Excavation depth, base correction, and any drainage work also count. We put all of it on paper before you decide.

Usually, and we figure it out before quoting rather than on the morning of. We look at gate widths, overhead branches, sprinkler lines, and where the truck can safely sit on your drive. Tight side yards get poured by buggy or pump. We lay down protection on the route, and anything we disturb getting back there gets put right afterward.

Check with your association first, always. Rules about where a recreational vehicle can be stored on a residential lot vary a lot from one community to the next, and it's much easier to ask before the concrete arrives. Once you know what's allowed, we can hand you dimensions, a site sketch, and a spec sheet for whatever submittal they want.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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