The concrete is almost never the thing that failed. The eighteen inches of loose dirt wrapped around it usually is.
When a house was built, somebody dug a hole considerably bigger than the house, put the foundation in the middle of it, and pushed the dirt back. That backfilled ring will never again be as tight as the ground it was cut out of. It's looser, it takes water faster, and it holds that water right against the concrete you'd rather keep dry. Every foundation on every street here has one, and most of the trouble we get called about starts inside it.
So our evaluations spend more time in the dirt than at the drywall. Our structural engineer looks at the cracks, of course, and measures them properly. But the question he's answering is what the ground is doing and why, because a repair aimed at the symptom is just a slower way of paying twice.
Think of that backfilled ring as a moat you didn't ask for. It's the lowest, loosest, thirstiest ground on your property, and everything about a typical yard conspires to feed it. Roof water lands there. The lawn slopes toward it, usually because the fill settled after the builder left. Beds get planted in it because the soil is easy to dig.
Undisturbed ground a few feet out behaves completely differently. It's denser, it wets and dries more slowly, and it doesn't swing with every storm. That contrast is the whole mechanism. A foundation sitting on ground that changes moisture at one rate, surrounded by ground that changes at a much faster one, gets pushed and released on a schedule set by your gutters.
Which is why the first thing we chase is where water enters and leaves that ring. Not because drainage is a cheaper answer than steel, but because bearing that reaches past the moisture zone and a yard that keeps refilling it are two halves of the same repair. Do one without the other and you've fixed part of a house.
People assume a house is one thing sitting on the ground. It's usually two. The walls and footings carry the structure and reach real bearing. The lower level floor in most houses here is a floating slab: a few inches of concrete lying on base material, deliberately not attached to anything, free to move on its own.
That's why the floor and the walls can tell you contradictory stories. A slab that has heaved is reacting to moisture in the top few feet. A wall that has settled is reacting to something much deeper. We've seen houses where the floor went up while the foundation went down, and the homeowner understandably assumed one problem.
Underneath a slab, the usual failure is a void. Water gets in along an edge, carries fines out of the base, and leaves the concrete bridging over air. You'll hear it before you see it, a dull hollow sound in one area. Left alone it cracks and steps. The fix is either lifting and filling that space or rebuilding the base, and either way it's a separate job from anything happening at the footings.
| The return path | How it happens | What actually ends it |
|---|---|---|
| Sump line that stops a few feet from the wall | The pipe went to the nearest convenient spot on a small lot | Carry it well past the disturbed ground, or into a drywell sized for the flow |
| Downspout onto a splash block over the old trench | That strip is the lowest, softest ground around the house | Extend the discharge beyond the backfill and pitch the grade to keep it moving |
| Spray heads watering the beds against the house | Beds go where they look right, not where the water belongs | Drip set back from the wall, heads aimed outward, and less water in that zone |
| A walk or patio that has settled back toward the house | It was poured over backfill, and the backfill kept compressing | Lift it or replace it so it drains away, because right now it's a funnel |
| Window well with a drain that quit years ago | Debris filled the rock and silt closed the outlet | Dig it out, connect it to something that works, and put a cover on the well |
| The neighbor's yard draining across yours | Two tight lots meeting with nowhere obvious for water to go | A defined swale and a shared plan, sorted out before either side pours concrete |
Our structural engineer comes out, looks at the ground as hard as the walls, and tells you what's driving it. No charge, and no scare quote. (303) 569-4046.
We opened a test hole on a job last fall and found the sump discharge pipe emptying about a yard from the wall, straight into the trench the pump was working to keep dry. That house had been running the same loop for years. Nobody had done anything wrong. Nobody had followed the pipe, either.Straight from the crew
Movement on this soil is a moisture story, so a single visit is one frame of a long film. If your symptoms come and go with the seasons, that's information, and we want it. Doors that bind through a wet spring and swing free by fall are telling us the top few feet are the culprit. Symptoms that never let up point deeper, and change what the repair has to reach.
Across Cherry Hills Vista and Broadway Estates we see both patterns on the same block, because the lots differ in how they drain more than in how they were built. That's another reason the yard gets as much attention as the house.
The repair itself is close to a year-round job. Interior crack work ignores the weather. Bearing work goes in whenever an excavation will open safely. Drainage corrections and regrading want unfrozen ground, so those get scheduled from spring through fall. What we would never do is tell you to wait for a nicer month while something is actively moving. Waiting is the only choice on this page that always costs money.
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
Accessibility
Adjust the site to fit how you read and browse. Your choices are saved on this device.