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Exposed Aggregate in Englewood, Colorado
Englewood, Colorado

Englewood Exposed Aggregate Concrete

Washed stone was the going finish on a lot of these blocks once. We still pour it, and we pour it with a base the originals never got.

You can date an Englewood house by its flatwork almost as reliably as by its windows. The little postwar ranches got plain gray. The sixties and seventies additions got washed stone, because that was the finish everybody wanted and every crew in Arapahoe County knew how to do. Sixty years later a lot of it is still down, which tells you something about the finish, and a lot of it is shedding pea gravel into the lawn, which tells you something about how it was built.

Those two facts are not in conflict. A washed surface is genuinely durable, more so than a broom finish, because the wear happens on stone instead of paste. What fails underneath it is the same thing that fails under everything here: no base, no steel, and a slab poured straight on dirt. We pour the finish those old walks had. We just put something real under it.

What we run into on each side of town

Northwest Englewood is where we do the most matching work. Narrow single-width drives, detached garages off an alley, and front walks that were poured in short panels. Homeowners there usually want a section replaced without the new work screaming at the old, so stone selection stops being decorative and becomes a matching exercise. We pull a sample off the existing slab, take it to the supplier, and get as close as the current rock inventory allows.

Broadway Estates leans toward full replacements. Wider drives, bigger slabs, and once you're tearing out a whole apron there's no reason to match anything.

Cherry Hills Vista is our new-work side. Bigger lots, more backyard, and washed stone showing up around patios and the walks that connect them. On a large patio we'll often run washed stone as a field with a hand-troweled border, which gives the eye a place to rest and gives you a smooth strip for furniture legs.

3/8"the stone size we reach for most on residential flatwork
45 to 90 minthe usual gap between finishing and washing, and it moves every day
4"minimum depth under a washed drive, five to six where a truck turns

Wash day, and the weather that runs it

Everything about this finish hangs on one judgment call: when to start washing. Too early and you rinse stone loose and end up with bald spots. Too late and the paste has locked up and you're fighting it with a pressure washer, which cuts unevenly and leaves streaks. The window itself is not a fixed number of minutes. It's whatever the day gives us.

Dry Front Range air shortens it. Wind shortens it more, and wind is the variable people never think about. A steady breeze across a fresh slab pulls surface water faster than sun does, and on a windy afternoon the window can close in half the time we planned for. So we set windbreaks, we stage hoses before we need them, and on hot days we spray a surface retarder that holds the top paste open and hands us back control.

Season-wise, May through early October is the honest run, and fall is the sweet spot: mild days, cool nights, a slower window, and time to cure before hard freezes. Winter placement is possible with heated water, accelerator, and blankets, but the wash step makes it a poor bet, since you're dumping cold water on a slab you're working to keep warm.

How deep we take the reveal

Same mix, same stone, four very different surfaces depending on how much paste comes off.
Depth of revealWhat it looks likeWhere it belongs
Light washSand grains and the smallest stone tops. Reads as a fine texture from ten feet awayFront entries and walks that want grip without feeling coarse underfoot
Medium washStone faces open with a generous grout line. The look most people are picturingDriveways, patios, and hot tub surrounds. Our default
Deep washStone standing proud, paste cut back past the shoulders of the rockSteep aprons and ramps. Excellent traction, hard to sweep, rough on bare feet
Sandblasted after cureEven and controlled, and it can be done long after the wash window is goneRepairs, matching an existing surface, and rescuing a slab that set too fast
Seeded stoneSpecialty rock broadcast on top and troweled in before washingFeature areas where the gravel in the ready-mix isn't the look you want
Bring us a picture of the walk you want matched

Stone blends change over the years, so matching takes a sample and a conversation. Both are free. Call (303) 569-4046.

How we keep a wash job from making a mess of your property

  • Slurry is contained and collected, not run into the gutter or the flower beds
  • Plywood and plastic protect adjacent flatwork, siding, and anything with a finish on it
  • Hose routes planned before the pour so nobody drags a live line across fresh concrete
  • Landscape rock and mulch tarped, because gray slurry does not wash out of bark
  • Wash water directed away from the foundation and away from your neighbor's side yard
  • Final rinse, sweep, and a walk of the alley approach before the trailer leaves
  • Sealing scheduled for later, once the slab has had its 28 days
Englewood Exposed Aggregate

Exposed Aggregate in Englewood

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Depends how deep it goes. If you're losing an occasional pebble from a surface that's otherwise tight, that's normal aging and a good penetrating sealer slows it down. If whole areas are shedding and you can see paste crumbling between the stones, the top layer has broken down and no sealer brings it back. At that point we're talking replacement of the affected panels, and we'd match the stone as closely as inventory allows.

Already in it, on almost every job. Ready-mix comes with gravel in it, and what we're doing is removing the thin layer of cement paste covering that gravel so the rock shows. Nothing gets glued on. The exception is seeded work, where we broadcast a specific decorative stone onto the fresh surface and work it in, which we do when the mix aggregate isn't the color or size somebody wants.

We adapt or we stop. Wind pulls surface moisture fast, which means the wash window shrinks and can close before we're across the slab. Windbreaks help. A surface retarder helps more, because it holds the top paste workable while the concrete below it sets normally. If the forecast is bad enough that we can't hold the window on a large slab, we'd rather move the pour than hand you a driveway with a streak down the middle.

Same as any decorative surface, but plastic shovel only. A metal blade catches on the high stones and knocks them loose over a few seasons. A snow blower on a low setting is fine. Skip the deicers, especially through the first winter, because chloride attacks the paste holding those stones and that's exactly the failure mode you're trying to avoid. Sand gives you traction and does nothing to the surface.

Often yes, and on older properties it's usually the smart move. We saw a clean line at an existing joint, take out the bad section, rebuild the base, and pour a match. It'll never be an exact twin, since the original has weathered and today's rock blends differ. Expect close. A light wash on the new work blends better than a deep one.

Into a containment setup, then off site. Cement slurry is alkaline and hard on landscaping, so it doesn't go into your beds or down a storm drain. On tight lots we plan the collection before the pour, because there's no improvising once the slab is going.

Yes, and this is the finish where sealing earns the most. A penetrating sealer soaks into the paste between the stones, which is the part that wears, and it slows freeze-thaw damage where water sits in the texture. First application waits until the slab has fully cured. After that, plan on every two to three years, sooner on a south-facing driveway that takes full sun and plow traffic.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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