(303) 569-4046 Serving Denver & the Front Range Licensed, Bonded & Insured
Go Denver Concrete
Landscape Curbing & Edging in Fort Collins, Colorado
Fort Collins, Colorado

Fort Collins Concrete Curbing

One machine, one morning, and a bed line that stops moving for good.

Curbing day looks nothing like a normal concrete job. No forms go up the day before. No truck backs into the yard and swings a chute. What shows up is a trailer, a small extruding machine that rides along the bed line, and a mix so stiff it holds its shape the second it leaves the hopper. If you've only watched a slab get poured, this will seem like a different trade.

We run curb through yards all over Fort Collins, from compact lots near Old Town where the beds hug the house to the wider landscapes around Fossil Creek and Registry Ridge. The install itself is usually one day. Here's exactly how that day goes, so nothing about it surprises you.

Layout is the part you get a vote on

We start with a garden hose. Laid on the ground, it shows the shape of the run better than any drawing, and you can nudge it until the curve reads right from the porch and from the street. That's the moment to speak up. Once the machine starts extruding, the line is set, and changing it means cutting concrete out.

After the hose comes paint, then a sod cutter or trencher opening a narrow strip along the whole run. The soil in that strip gets graded and packed. Curb is heavy enough to need firm ground under it, and narrow enough that a soft spot shows up as a dip within a couple of years. We watch for sprinkler heads and drip line as we go, because irrigation almost always runs exactly where a bed edge belongs.

The sequence on install day

  • Hose line laid, adjusted with you, then marked in paint
  • Strip cut and trenched along the marked line
  • Subgrade graded and compacted the length of the run
  • Stiff, low-slump mix batched on site and fed into the machine
  • Machine walked along the line, extruding the profile in one piece
  • Radiuses hand-shaped where the machine can't turn tight enough
  • Contraction joints tooled every few feet while the concrete is green
  • Color and texture worked in on the runs where you chose them
  • Curing compound sprayed the same day, tools and spoil cleared out
Curious what the line would look like?

We'll lay out the run with you, measure the footage, and leave a written number. Nothing gets cut until you like the shape.

What gets cleared before the machine rolls

Sorting this out ahead of the install is the difference between one visit and two
What's in the wayWho deals with itWhat it costs to skip
Mulch, rock, and bed material along the lineYou, or us as an add to the quoteThe machine can't ride a clean line and the edge wanders
Sprinkler heads and drip tube crossing the runUs, once you point out what you know aboutA cut line found by the machine, mid-run, with the mix already batched
Low-voltage lighting wire buried at bed depthYou mark it, we sleeve or reroute itA severed cable that nobody can locate later
Old plastic or steel edgingUs, pulled and hauled with the spoilNew curb set over buried edging, which never sits flat
Gate width and the path from the drivewayYou, by unlatching and clearing itA machine that can't reach the back yard on the day we're scheduled

Why the mix looks wrong, and what happens after we leave

People watch the hopper and get nervous. The material coming out looks like damp sand rather than the soupy gray they expect, and that's the point: a curb has nothing holding its shape but itself, so the mix has to stand up the instant the machine passes. Same cement, same aggregate, far less water. It also dries fast on a hot windy afternoon, which is why curing compound goes on right behind the crew instead of at the end of the day.

Joints matter more here than on most flatwork. A curb is a long, thin, unreinforced ribbon, and at the north end of the range the freeze and thaw swings work on it hard all winter. So we tool contraction joints every few feet. The run will shrink and it will move, and those joints give it seams to do it along. A run with no joints cracks anyway, randomly, and those cracks widen every season.

Then it's yours. Keep sprinklers off it for a day, hold the rock and mulch back until we say go, and let nobody drive across it for a week. Season-wise, April into October works, with fall a favorite because beds are cut back and the machine has clean sight lines. We stop once the ground quits taking compaction, since frozen subgrade under a narrow curb is a run that lifts by March.

1 daytypical install for a residential run
3 to 4 ftspacing on the contraction joints we tool
2 inof the profile set below grade so the run stays anchored
7 daysbefore anything with wheels crosses a fresh run
The runs we get called out to fix are almost never cracked from cold. They failed where somebody skipped the trench and set curb on loose topsoil. Ten minutes of compaction per section is the whole trick.Straight from the crew
Fort Collins Landscape Curbing

Landscape Curbing in Fort Collins

Still unsure about something?

Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.

Completely. Extruded curb uses a stiff, low-water mix so the profile holds its shape with no form around it. Wetter would run easier and slump into a lump. The tradeoff is that a dry mix loses surface moisture fast in our air, so curing compound goes on immediately, which also gives the finish its slight sheen for a few weeks.

It's small enough that one person walks it along the line, and it rides on the strip we've already cut rather than on your turf. Wheelbarrow traffic feeding it does more to a lawn than the machine does, so we set plywood on the route across grass. Expect some flattening along that path. On a wet spring day we'll reschedule rather than rut the yard.

We plan the crossings before we start. Low points get a gap in the run, a lowered section, or a sleeve cast underneath so drainage keeps moving. Ignore it and a flower bed becomes a bathtub, and in our winters water standing behind a curb freezes and pushes on it. Point out where water sheets across the yard during a storm.

Same evening for walking around it, as long as nobody steps on it. Curb takes a footprint or a paw print for several hours after it's tooled. Give it a full day before sprinklers hit it, a couple of days before rock and mulch go back, and a week before a wheelbarrow or mower crosses.

Usually not, and the curing compound helps, since it sheds a fair amount of light rain. Hard rain in the first hour or two is the real risk, because it washes the surface and leaves it rough or dusty. All summer we watch the buildup over the foothills and will start early or push a day rather than gamble. If a storm does hit fresh work, call and we'll come look.

It's our favorite. Perennials are cut back so the line is easy to see, the soil still compacts well, and the ground has weeks left before it locks up. Spring works once the yard dries out, though lead times run longer then. What we avoid is running curb over ground still frozen underneath.

Mobilization for the trip, removal of old edging if you want it gone, hauling the spoil from the trench, and any color, texture, or sealer you choose. Tight radiuses and hand-formed sections take longer than straight runs, and steep grades slow the machine, so those show up too. We list all of it rather than burying it in the footage rate.
Finished concrete project at a Colorado home

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