Two-part polyurethane injected straight into the void, because the void is the actual problem.
A settled slab is rarely a concrete failure. Break one out and the concrete itself is often perfectly good. What's missing is the four to six inches of support that used to sit under it: base washed sideways by a downspout, trench backfill that finished compacting a decade after the pour, soil that shrank away during a dry stretch and never came back. The slab didn't sink. The ground left.
Polyurethane leveling goes after that directly. We drill a small port, inject a two-part resin that expands into every corner of the empty space, and the slab rides back up on the fill. It hardens in minutes and it weighs almost nothing, which counts for a lot when the soil that already failed once is the same soil holding everything now.
| What we find down there | How it got that way | What injection does about it |
|---|---|---|
| A washed channel tracing a downspout | Roof water dumping at one corner for years, carrying base out with it | Fills the channel and restores bearing. Fix the gutter or we're back in three years. |
| Loose sandy trench backfill | Spoil shoveled back in without compaction, settling on its own clock | Resin works into the loose material and stiffens it as it expands. |
| A clean air gap an inch or two deep | Clay pulled down in a dry year and the slab bridged the space | Best case there is. The gap closes, the panel rises, and nothing carries extra weight. |
| Rotting organic material | Old stumps, roots, or buried yard debris left under the pour | Foam fills what's left, but decay keeps going. We'll say when replacement is smarter. |
| Uncompacted fill along a foundation wall | Backfill dropped in one deep lift instead of several thin ones | Works, and we go light on pressure. Pushing hard next to a foundation cracks expensive things. |
Older neighborhoods surprise people. Pull a century-old walk in Wash Park or Park Hill and there's frequently no base course at all, just concrete laid on native soil that was scraped flat and called good. It held because the concrete was thick and the soil stayed dry. Change the moisture, and the whole equation moves.
Scrape-and-rebuild lots in Sloan's Lake, Berkeley, and the Highlands have the opposite issue. There's imported fill under everything, sometimes deep, and if it went in fast it's still finding its level. Central Park flatwork sits on engineered fill that's usually solid, which is why the calls from there tend to be about one apron or one strip along a garage rather than a whole yard. And in University Hills, half of what we chase is irrigation. A leaking zone under a walk will hollow it out quietly for a couple of seasons.
We'll read your drainage and your joints before we quote a lift. The dirt story matters more than the concrete does.
People use the words interchangeably. They shouldn't. Mudjacking pumps a sand and cement slurry through holes a little over an inch and a half wide, and it puts real weight back under your concrete. Foam goes in through a port the size of a pencil, expands as a closed-cell polyurethane, and adds a few pounds per cubic foot. It's water resistant, so it won't wash out the way loose fill can.
So which one? Slurry is the value pick on firm subgrade with a big void to fill, and we run plenty of it. Foam wins when the soil is soft and can't take more load, when the panel butts a foundation and needs a gentle push, when the void is thin and irregular, or when you need the surface back in service within the hour. That's the whole decision. Not brand loyalty, just what the ground can carry.
Injection has a longer season than most concrete work. The resin cures by chemical reaction, not by ambient warmth, so a cold clear day is workable. Frozen subgrade is still a wall: lift a slab that's frost-locked to the ground and you tear it. We watch for thawed ground more than the thermometer, and a January warm run is often a fine week to level a walk.
Then the part we can't do for you. Get roof water away from the concrete. Downspout extensions, a corrected splash zone, a regraded strip along the walk. Seal the joints so surface water quits pouring into the space we just filled. We lift the slab; you keep the water off it. Do both and the repair holds for a long, boring stretch of years.
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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