We fix what's failing on top by first working out what's failing underneath.
A cracked slab is a symptom. The problem is usually six inches down. That's not what homeowners in Founders Village and Plum Creek expect to hear when they call about a patio that split down the middle or a garage apron that dropped a half inch at the seam. We come out, we look at the crack, and then we go looking for the reason the crack exists at all.
Sometimes the answer is plain wear. Sometimes the base washed out under a downspout that's been dumping in the same spot for eleven years. Repair work that skips that step is decoration. It looks better for one season, the same line reopens in the same place, and now you've paid twice for one problem. So we start below the concrete and work up.
Douglas County dirt doesn't hold still. Moisture goes in and the ground pushes up; the ground dries out and it drops back. A slab poured straight onto that with no gravel between has nothing to spread the load, so every seasonal shove lands directly on the concrete. That's the first thing we check with a probe and a small drill hole. Is there a compacted base under there, or is it dirt with a slab lying on it?
Second question: where does the water go? Grading softens over decades. Downspouts get extended, then shortened by a lawn crew, then forgotten. Water finds the low side of a slab, carries the fine material out from under it, and leaves a void behind. Concrete bridging a void cracks. Every time, and usually on the diagonal.
Third question is joint layout, which has nothing to do with soil. Panels left too big crack where a control joint should have been. That's an arithmetic mistake from the original pour, and it calls for a different fix entirely.
| What you're looking at | Likely cause below | Our repair call |
|---|---|---|
| Tight line, no height difference across it | Shrinkage left over from the original cure | Rout it square and seal it. Cosmetic, and it'll stay that way. |
| One side of the crack sits higher than the other | Soil movement or a void under one panel | Lift first, repair second. Patching a moving edge is wasted material. |
| Flaking, pitted, powdery top layer | Deicer chemistry plus freeze cycles working the top half inch | Partial-depth patch, or a bonded overlay if it's widespread. |
| Gap opens in spring, tightens by October | Seasonal moisture swing in the clay below | Flexible joint sealant. A rigid patch shears off by the second winter. |
| Web of cracks across an entire panel | The base under it is gone, not the concrete | Replace the panel. Nothing you put on a dead base holds. |
| Corner snapped off at a joint | Wheel load on an edge with no support under it | Doweled corner rebuild, tied into sound concrete. |
Most home repairs are the wrong repair for the crack in question. We'll tell you which one you've got. No charge, no pitch.
We turn down repair work. Not often, but we do, because there's a point where patching is renting time at a terrible rate. If a third of the surface is broken, if panels rock underfoot, if the washout runs wide rather than showing up in one spot, we'll quote the replacement instead.
The reverse comes up more often. People in Metzler Ranch call ready to tear out a whole driveway because the two panels nearest the street look rough. Two bad panels is a two-panel job.
Routing and sealing want dry concrete and air holding above 50 degrees, so our good stretch runs late April into October. Early fall is quietly the best window of the year up here. The slab has finished its summer growth, the joint sits at a middle width, and sealant placed then handles movement in both directions.
Summer works, with one caveat. Storms build fast in the afternoon at this elevation, and a patch rained on inside its first few hours cures dusty and weak. We watch the sky and we carry plastic. Winter narrows us to interior slabs, crack injection in a basement wall, and emergency stabilization on something that's turned hazardous. No patch material goes on a frozen slab, and no sealant goes into a joint with ice at the bottom.
Nine times in ten, when somebody tells me the crack came back, nobody ever fixed the water. Chased one down to a splash block tipped backward into a flowerbed. Ten minutes of grading, and that patch has held ever since.What our crew lead tells homeowners
Still unsure about something?
Call the crew at (303) 569-4046 and we will talk it through.
Get a free, no-obligation estimate from a crew that knows Colorado soil, Colorado weather, and how to finish concrete that lasts.
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